Choosing a marina in Pula as the starting point for your weekly sailing trip is a great strategic idea. A new horizon of numerous routes will open up for you. You can go on an easy sightseeing trip along the Istrian peninsula or head south towards Northern Dalmatia and enjoy a stay on one of the magical islands of the Kvarner region. The area around Pula is not so abundant with islands as in other parts of Dalmatia, so you may kick in your adrenaline by sailing on the open sea.
One of the advantages of sailing in Istria and Kvarner is the less amount of tourists compared to the southern parts of Croatia. You are more likely to be able to avoid the crowd.
In this itinerary, you will sail from Pula to the south and east. The route is ideal for those looking forward to hoisting and trimming the sails. Kids will probably not get so excited about a long sailing in the wind. Still, we also have some suggestions for families. History fans are guaranteed to have the time of their lives this week. We still recommend a visit to ancient Pula to all kinds of crews. No one should resist the temptation to see the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. From Pula, you will continue in the footsteps of the Romans and brave sailors. You will spend the nights in a romantic bay on the island of Unije, in beautiful ancient ports on the fragrant island of Lošinj. You will also visit unforgettable places on the island of Cres, where you will literally stumble over pieces of history. The islands of Susak and Ilovik are popular with crews looking for beautiful and accessible beaches. You will fill your lungs with refreshing air with the scent of pine and oregano. Last but not least, a sailing week without a gastronomic tasting of excellent Istrian cuisine and wine would not be complete.
Suggested sailing itinerary for 7 days: Pula - Unije (Maračol bay) - Susak and Lošinj (Mali or Veli Lošinj) - Cres (to Martinšćica via Osor or around Lošinj) - Cres (town of Cres) - Istria (Portić/Pomer) - Pula
Feel free to adjust the plan according to the weather and wind forecast and start your trip closer to Pula first. Be aware that if you start at the ACI Marina in the city centre, expect at least 31 miles of sailing to the island of Unije or about 26 nm from the port of Veruda.
The article concludes with two alternative routes for recreational yachters who do not plan longer trips and for rather adventurous crews. You can also find inspiration in our previous itinerary for the whole of Kvarner.
With this sailing itinerary, you can make approximately 130 - 150 nautical miles (nm).
- day (Saturday): Check-in in a marina in Pula
- day (Sunday): Pula - Unije (Maračol) (26 - 31 nm)
- day (Monday): Unije - Susak (Bok) - Lošinj/Ilovik (16 - 21 nm)
- day (Tuesday): Lošinj - Cres (Martinšćíca) (22 nm)
- day (Wednesday): Cres (Martinšćíca) - Cres (Žanja) - Cres (Cres) (16 nm)
- day (Thursday): Cres (Cres) - Istria (Uvala Portić/Pomer) (24 - 27 nm)
- day (Friday): Istria - Pula (14 - 17 nm)
You can find the route on Google Maps on this link.
The course for the Navionics map is here.
You can add another 130 - 150 nm to your logbook.
Day 1 (Saturday) - Pula
Pula has been a strategic point for centuries. The place was familiar to everyone in Roman, medieval, Venetian, Italian, French, and Habsburg times. Traces of every historical era are visible in the city. The most striking trace is the amphitheatre, similar to the Roman Colosseum. In addition to being the world's sixth-largest amphitheatre, it is also the best preserved. The locals call it the Arena; today, it is a place for cultural events. Its unique location and the port will give you a spectacular view of the illuminated historical monument, especially at night.
If you take your sailing boat from the ACI marina, you have all the essential sights to jump out of the pasarella. From Veruda you will have to get to the city by taxi.
Although the best option to see the city is walking through the alleys, Pula offers a unique opportunity to walk in a pleasant shade underground. The Zerostrasse underground tunnel network will lead you to an elevator that will take you to the fortress. The four long corridors are well-marked. Other points of interest in the city centre are the remains of the ramparts, such as the Triumphal Arch of the Sergievs and Hercules’ Gate.
A hungry crew will surely enjoy a culinary experience in the Veritas restaurant or in Bistro Alighieri. Close to the Veruda Marina, the cosy little business Villa Margerita is an excellent choice. Don't forget to accompany good food with Malvasia wine - a symbol of Istria.
HINT: In an ideal sailing scenario, it is most efficient to leave the marina on Friday and enjoy more days on the sea. If you do so, a suitable anchorage for the first night outside Pula is about 3 hours away - either Pomer with the ACI marina or the romantic bay Portić with the possibility of dropping anchor. In this scenario, you may want to consider adding to your itinerary the islands of Premuda or Silba, which lie below the islands of Lošinj and Ilovik.
Day 2 (Sunday) - Pula - Unije ( Maračol bay) - (26 - 31nm)
This part of the route will be the longest one. Make sure to leave the marina early in the morning. Today´s destination is the uninhabited and very popular bay Maračol on the remarkable island of Unije. In addition to active sailing, you can use up the long voyage for the theoretical training of less standard mooring to buoy to avoid chaos on the spot.
Places worth visiting
This day is made for intense sailing on the open sea. There is no shortage of wind in this part of the area. Get acquainted with the sails, have fun when the boat tilts, and observe the dolphins.
From busy Pula, you will head to an idyllic, quiet island with almost no infrastructure. The island of Unije is formed by steep rocky slopes in the northwest and flat bays in the south and east. On the island, you will find the remains of an ancient Roman road. An evening walk from Maračol Bay towards the town of Unije will reward you with a beautiful view of the sunset and the twinkling stars.
Where to moor?
No wonder the eastern bay of Maračol is popular. It is well protected from all sides except the southeast. You can moor to the buoy, but the wind makes this manoeuvre more challenging. Three ropes hang from the buoy; you tie two thicker ones on a ratchet on the sides of the bow, and you "handle" on the third thin rope until you reach the ropes to secure the stern. These ropes lead to the shore. In the wind or limited space, we recommend that you approach the buoy and tie the stern, and only then solve the tying of the ropes in front. Pay attention to the condition of the buoy; some ropes may be missing. The good news is in case of any problem; you can rely on the prompt assistance of local workers on the boat, who will help you with mooring.
Equally beautiful and less visited is the bay Potkujni. If you want to increase your chances of finding an available buoy or do not intend to visit the only settlement on the island, head straight to Potkujni.
If, on the other hand, you have a craving for grilled fish and wine, opt for the night in Maračol Bay. You can reach the town of Unije in about 15-20 minutes by walking. In this peaceful, sleepy settlement, you will find only two average restaurants, an ice cream stand, a bakery and an excellent bar. Don't forget to pack your flashlights when you return to the bay at night.
Day 3 (Monday) - Unije - Susak - Lošinj (M.Lošinj/V.Lošinj/Krivica) or Ilovik (16 - 21 nm)
From the Unije island, you will head towards the neighbouring island of Lošinj, one of the famous Kvarner islands. This island has a special climate with healing effects, earning it the name the island of vitality. Enhance your sailing trip with a stopover on the island of Susak on a beautiful sandy beach. You will also find an exceptional beach for swimming and a suitable refuge during a strong storm on the island of Ilovik. You can spend the night in the harbour or on a buoy in the popular bay Krivica in Lošinj.
Places worth visiting
The island of Susak is surprisingly sandy - more than a hundred meters of the sand layer was blown on the rocky slab of the island. The lovely sandy beach of Bok with a slowly descending bottom is an attraction, especially for children in your crew. Don't be surprised to smell oregano in the air already when approaching the island. More oregano herbs are growing on Susak island than pine trees. Directly in the town of Susak, a port manager will assign you a place to anchor or moor, or you can moor to the buoy in another bay. When manoeuvring (basically everywhere on the island), watch for depths that may not match the data on the map due to sand deposits.
HINT: If you find yourself on the island of Susak on 31 July, don't miss the unusual Emigrant Day festivities. These annual celebrations honour the people of Susak, who emigrated to the United States and formed a traditional community there. At the end of July, hundreds meet regularly on their home island.
The island of Lošinj boasts beautiful bays and lush vegetation. The island's north is mountainous, and the south is covered with subtropical greenery. Around Ćikat Bay, an entire pine forest park was artificially planted 120 years ago. The island of Lošinj will please your eyes and your nose. Aromatic plants form a significant part of the Lošinj flora. Every month of the year, different species of plants can be smelled on the island. In July, it is lavender; in August, oleander; and October is the month of myrtle. Already in Austria-Hungary, Lošinj was a well-known place to treat the respiratory tract. Humidity, forest and pleasant temperatures throughout the year still benefit health. In addition, the island was given another unofficial attribute, “The Dolphin Island”. There is a whole colony of protected bottlenose dolphins around Lošinj and Cres. This area was declared the first dolphin reserve in the Mediterranean. At the beginning of July, the entertainment and educational event “Dolphin Days” takes place in the town of Veli Lošinj.
Veli Lošinj is a climatic spa with a sanatorium for respiratory diseases and top wellness hotels. Veli Lošinj was once a naval base, and ship captains used to compete in the construction of villas and garden parks. That’s why the cities on the island are so green. The name "Veli" (big) Lošinj is misleading, as it is much smaller than Mali Lošinj.
Mali Lošinj is a very lively resort with a typical seaside charm. In the town, you will find an exhibited world archaeological piece - a bronze statue of the Greek athlete Apoxyomenos from the 1-4th century B.C. This statue was accidentally discovered in 1996 by an amateur diver at a depth of 45 meters near the islands of Orjule near Lošinj. Another unusual attraction in the city is the centre for injured turtles, often hurt by recreational vessels, ferries and plastic garbage.
Beautiful beaches with crystal clear water and the smell of the forest can be found in the bay of Veli Žal, closer to Mali Lošinj and further south in the bay of Krivica. The shape of Krivica resembles a small fjord, and it is worth taking a swimming break on the way to Veli Lošinj or spending even the night.
An impressive place is undoubtedly the island of Ilovik, with a sandy beach on the south side and a pleasant settlement on the north.
Where to moor?
If you plan to visit the island of Susak, the sandy beach above can be reached from the bay of Bok. There are several buoys with the same mooring method as in Maračol Bay.
On the island of Lošinj you can choose between several berthing options according to the weather and the captain's decision. In strong winds, there is a risk of unpleasant waves at the entrance to the bay in the town of Mali Lošinj. In the town of Mali Lošinj itself, you have a busier town pier and marina. Tokens are needed to use sanitary facilities here. The port is lively and cheerful, and you will find a good restaurant on every corner. Our tip is the restaurant Bocca Vera with quality cuisine and a nice view from the terrace.
The town of Veli Lošinj on the east bank is calmer, but the north and northeast wind can be unpleasant in the port. Here, too, foodies will have a great time. The tavern Ribarska koliba is worth a visit.
If there is a strong bora, continue to the island of Ilovik, with a well-protected and attractive anchorage in the southern bay called Parzine. Avoid this site when jugo blows. If you are not in the mood for the typical harbor noise, you can drop anchor in Artaturi Bay or moor to a buoy as a guest at the local Artatore restaurant. This bay is sufficiently protected even during the bora.
You will find several buoys in the Krivica bay with a beautiful beach, picturesque surroundings and the rural restaurant Balvanida, which can be reached by a path in the forest. In the south, the bay is not sufficiently covered.
We do not currently recommend staying overnight in Čikat bay; the mooring stands are only for hotel guests, and anchoring is risky on rocky bottom.
Day 4 (Tuesday) - Lošinj - Cres (Martinšćica/Ustrine) (22 nm)
From Lošinj you will sail to the largest Croatian island as of today - Cres. Getting from the island of Lošinj to Cres can turn into a challenging sailing fun. You have several options to make today's part more memorable.
How to get from Lošinj island to Cres island
The island of Lošinj and Cres once formed one large elongated island. They have already been divided by a canal built by the Romans for several centuries. Thus, vessels do not have to bypass the whole of Lošinj, and you can also pass below the bridge in the town of Osor. The bridge connects the two islands and always opens at 9:00 and 17:00. Priority is given to ships from the south. Consider that in these times, a cluster of boats may form in front of the bridge, which may not result in a pleasant trip, especially in strong winds.
If you spent the night in the port of Veli Losinj or on the island of Ilovik, it makes logistical sense to go via Osor. Or you can bypass the western coastline of Lošinj towards Cres, but this will “cost” you over 30 miles. You can also opt for another bridge in the Privlaka canal close to Mali Lošinj.
If you spent the night close to Mali Lošinj and don’t plan any bridges, after leaving the bay, simply bypass the west coast of Lošinj and head towards Cres. We recommend this option the most, especially in the summer season, as there may be a problem with vacancies in the late evening.
If you are still up to a little challenge, you can try crossing in the aforementioned narrow canal Privlaka near Mali Lošinj under the bridge. The bridge opens at 9:00 and 18:00, and in strong winds or with a novice crew, we definitely do not recommend passing here. By the way, this bridge still rotates manually with a crank. When sailing across the strait, the rule "all fenders out and full steam ahead" applies! The key is to go a bit faster than a stream of water so that the rudder engages properly and keeps the ship in the middle. You can then pass below the Osor Bridge in the evening at 17:00 or bypass Lošinj towards Cres. The port of Martinšćica on the island of Cres is an hour and a half away.
Places worth visiting
If you are leaving the town of Mali Lošinj and sailing along the west shore of Lošinj, consider taking a break in the wild bay of Liski, but not when the bora is blowing. The bottom here is sandy, and the anchor holds well. The bay is not yet a well-known tourist or sailing destination. Similarly, the bays Lipica and Tomožina are "deserted", and they both offer a good place to hide in case of a bora.
You can plan a night or a break from sailing on the island of Cres in the surroundings of the bay Ustrine on the beach Veli Žal or Pod Sadič with clear water. The beaches are considered one of the several jewels the island has to offer.
Where to moor?
As the bridge in Osor does not open until the early evening, there is a risk that there will no longer be a vacancy in the town of Martinšćica on Cres. In this case, it is a safe choice to stay overnight in Lošinj's Nerezina or directly in Osor and cross under the bridge in the morning. You can also give a chance to the well-protected mooring Ustrine, which will delight fans of nice beaches.
Today's destination is the island of Cres, a small resort in Martinšćica with berths with electricity and water. It is possible to drop anchor in the bay outside the port. From the available restaurants in this cozy town we recommend the family businesses Sidro and Koralj.
Day 5 (Wednesday) - Cres - Žanja - Cres (ACI marina Cres) (16 nm)
Cres is an island of olives, sheep, vultures and beautiful bays. Remains of fortifications built by the original inhabitants are scattered all over the island. Although tourism development began on the island soon, you will find camps here instead of hotel resorts.
Places worth visiting
The local motto of the island of Cres is - "no stress on Cres". Therefore, enjoy a slow morning and a swim nearby with a clean and nice pebble beach. After about an hour's cruise from the village of Martinšćica, you will reach the bays of Žanja and Sv.Ivan. In Žanja, drop anchor and approach the 30-meter cave called Modrá jaskyňa (Blue Cave) by dinghy. Make sure you leave enough space for cruise ships when mooring. Anchoring is not so smooth due to the depth and spots with a rocky bottom, so make sure that some crew members stay on deck to watch out. You will not see the best performance of lights until the afternoon after 14:00, but this place retains its charm non-stop.
Another to-see thing on your itinerary is the neighbouring bay of St. John near the historic village of Lubenice. In the bay, you can relax on one of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia and the world. This almost sandy beach is best accessible from the waterside. For terrestrial tourists, a relatively challenging path leads to the beach on a steep slope from the village of Lubenice. By the way, this village is also worth seeing. The views from the top are breathtaking. To hike to Lubenice, you need sturdy shoes and water. Ascent, sightseeing, and descent should take about three hours. The good news is that the beach is seldom full due to its difficult access.
Raca Beach in Valun Bay is a good stop if you have children or non-swimmers in the crew. There is plenty of shade and a pebble beach.
You can end the day in the capital of the island - Cres. Cres is a historic, pleasant town with excellent gastronomy. The city’s cultural heritage consists of the Loggia with a pillar of shame, churches, a palace, and an observation tower. You don’t have to worry about drinking water on the island. Its source is the lake Vranské, located more than 10 meters above sea level. The water stems mainly from rain.
During your stay on the island of Cres, from time to time, have a look at the sky. You may see a vulture flying above you with a 2.5-meter wingspan. It is an endangered species, and Cres is one of the few places in Europe with this animal.
Where to moor?
The safe place for the night is the town of Cres, either in the large ACI marina or at the recently expanded town pier.
From ACI Marina, you can reach the city in 20 minutes. The marina is well equipped, with quality services and kept clean. It is protected from all directions. If you are not into modern marinas, we recommend parking the boat in the town port.
Apart from Cres, the picturesque summer resort of Valun is a good choice. Avoid spending the night during a bora; the area is not well protected against this wind.
Wherever you decide to stay for the night, remember to taste other local specialities besides fish - olives, olive oil and lamb. Outside the city centre, Bistro Melin will certainly not disappoint you. You can also enjoy homemade dishes at Grill & BBQ House Porta Bragadina.
Day 6 (Thursday) - Cres (ACI Cres) - Istria (Bay of Raša/Portić/Pomer) (24 - 27 nm)
Today, you will steer the course towards Pula. You will spend the penultimate night in Istria, and you can choose from several candidates. How about diversifying your vacation with a windsurfing lesson in Pomer? Or visit the Robinson hideout in Portić?
Places worth visiting
Today will be all about sails and trimming. We suggest choosing an anchorage in Medulin Bay (marina in Pomer or anchor in Portić Bay). If you decide on a shorter route from Cres, a perfect place to anchor is the bay Krnica near the bay Raša.
In Pomer, you can try another way of using wind to move on the sea. The local bay has exceptional conditions to try your first windsurfing lessons.
We wrote about the romantic Portić bay in more detail in the Easter itinerary. The bay attracts people with its calm atmosphere and a Robinson bar in the bushes called Safari Bar.
Where to moor?
The safe place to park the boat is undoubtedly the ACI Marina Pomer. The only drawback may be sand deposits at the entrance to the marina, so only boats with a maximum draft of 2.4 meters can enter it.
The anchor in Portić bay holds up well at a depth of about 7 meters in a muddy bottom. The bay is exposed to the northeast and east wind.
The mentioned Krnica bay at the entrance to the Raša bay closer to Cres, is a pleasant anchorage which is not protected in the south. The whole bay resembles a fjord.
Day 7 (Friday) - back to Pula (14 - 17 nm)
On the last day, succumb to the magic of sailing and head back to Pula with full sails. If you feel like having a final buoy hunt and swimming break, hop off in Soline Bay near the Veruda Marina.
Alternative sailing routes:
For families with children or recreational sailors:
- Pula - Rovinj - Novigrad (including the visit to waterpark Istrolandia) - Vrsar - Brijuni - Pomer / Portić - Pula
For more active sailors:
- Pula - Unije - Susak and Mali Lošinj - Ilovik and Premuda - Cres (Punta Kriza) - Portić/Cres Martinščica - Pula,
The area around the Istrian peninsula and the Kvarner islands is inspiring for many sailors. We believe that your sailing experience in this region will be unforgettable. All you have to do is choose a suitable boat and build a good crew. For the first part, there is the Boataround team.
Note: We calculated the route length and estimated time in the Navionics application.